一、正味铁观音是怎么来的？
铁观音作为茶叶界中的顶级品种，铁观音业界的技术潮流变化是比较快的，从过去的传统茶再到轻发酵工艺的流行，轻发工艺随后又分化为正炒、消青、拖酸三种类别，其中消青又衍生“消正”、“消青拖”两个小类。这几种茶无论在外观、香气、口感方面都有较显著的风格差异。
1、正炒：干茶黛绿、色泽较暗不鲜活，正味铁观音视觉观感显得较差黑。
2、消青：干茶一般显砂绿，色泽鲜活度普遍较高，视觉观感较好。
3、消青拖：干茶多显青绿，色泽鲜活度普遍较高，观感与消青茶的差异并不是很大，因此较难从外观上区分。(但可以从干茶的香味上分辨)。
正味铁观音茶干
二、正味铁观音的香气特点
1、正炒：正炒茶盖碗香不显著，就算是上等品，第一泡盖碗香气也很弱（淡淡的幽香）、茶汤清澈透亮、茶水软，回甘强劲，香味淡淡但却很悠长，属于富有后劲的风格——但从香气来讲，正炒以幽香风格多见、强度也很难同消青产品相比。茶汤香气同样较为淡雅，风格含蓄多见。
2、消青：消青茶盖碗香明显，好的消青茶盖碗香霸气或者悠扬，上品盖香或风格张扬、或含蓄，但都很容易感知——优品香气高雅。但近几年盖香极尖锐、霸气的铁绝迹，接触过等级最高的茶品，香气为极幽细风格，香气一缕、极富穿透力。不过这类茶也极罕见，不建议追求。总体来说，消青茶容易做到盖香清晰高扬，茶友也最容易接受。
消正：香气跟正炒的茶比较类似，但是比正炒茶香气更容易让品饮者感受到。正味铁观音香气靠近正炒风格；消酸：洗茶后闻叶底，会有明显的酸香，这种酸香普遍令人愉快；一水后酸香消失，安溪铁观音茶汤则不带酸味。
3、拖酸：酸味很明显，拖酸茶一般有明显的酸味，这种茶时间一长，酸味就会发臭，价值相对教低。现在很多铁观音爱好者很喜欢这类型的茶，拖酸茶一般有明显的拖味，这种茶有致命的缺陷，工艺没有保留的价值。
业内人士认为：论香气的高扬程度，拖酸排第一，消青排第二，正炒排第三；论香气的高雅程度：正炒排第一，消青第二（高阶品亦可并列第一），拖酸末流没法比。
正味铁观音叶底
三、正味铁观音口感特点
1、正炒：正味茶，口感很顺滑，回甘很强劲。入口很舒服，几杯下去满嘴都是茶。会有种一直想往里咽口水的感觉。
2、消青：口感较为浓烈，茶水柔细，回味甘不错，但是比正炒茶差些。因为香气高，所以市面上很多茶客喜欢这种茶。
3、拖酸：上等的这类型茶，口感也很好，品尝起来有酸酸的感觉，很多人都会把这种味道认为成观音韵，刚学喝铁观音的人都很容易接受这款茶，但是喝长了，对这款就没有原来那么多好感了。
正味铁观音汤色
四、正味铁观音茶叶底特点
1、正炒：普遍为暗黄绿色；
2、消青：墨绿色；
3、拖酸：普遍为墨绿色，光泽度好。
五、正味铁观音的制作工艺特点
1、正炒：采摘后第二天上午炒制，采用重晒多摇、长间隔的处理，发酵度比较适中。正炒茶的制作方法基本延续传统观音的工艺。
2、消青：采摘后第二天中午到晚上炒制，中午时分制作为消正，下午制作的为消酸。
3、拖酸：采摘后第三天凌晨炒制，摇青程度最轻。
消青铁观音茶干
六、正味铁观音的发酵程度
从制作工艺上来说，正味铁观音属于发酵比较足的茶品，发酵度达到30%左右，在颜色上和我们平常看到的一些翠绿颜色的铁观音大相径庭，严格来说。正味铁观音的外观颜色以黑青色为主，看着略带白皙感，此特征毛茶尤其明显，优质的正味铁观音不但黑青暗绿且油亮有光泽，俗话叫“乌油饱水”。
七、正味铁观音树种要求
铁观音产自安溪，茶园大军正在逐渐壮大。一些不符合条件的茶园也是滥竽充数。低海拔的茶园以及种植在稻田里的茶园，包括周边县市，这些不具备安溪铁观音适宜种植生长的地区，制作的铁观音具备不了铁观音的品种特征。这些生产的茶叶，因为质量不好经不起重摇重发酵，转而采用消青、拖酸制作工艺以掩盖缺点。
而回归传统制作工艺，恰好可以对低海拔、“田青”与中高海拔的铁观音，安溪县内与县外的铁观音进行一定的区隔。值得一提的是，“田青”是制作不了正味铁观音的，因此正味铁观音的树种也并没有我们想象中的那么多了，打着安溪口号的铁观音是否具有真实性，仁者见仁智者见智。
拖酸铁观音茶干
八、正味铁观音种植环境要求
种植和制作优质正味铁观音必须具备天时地利人和三个要素。纯种铁观音茶树，适应茶树生长的良好土壤，一般都种植在海拔到800-1000m的高山地带，在这样的海拔高度上，雾多，漫射光多温度适宜，铁观音才能含有较丰富的氨基酸。铁观音茶园以坐南朝北为佳，因为这样的地理位置，太阳不会整天直射，日光多为斜射光。从而形成独特的铁观音品质并得到精心培育，4到10年的茶树制作出来的就更好了。
铁观音茶树生长环境
九、正味铁观音的储藏方法
正味铁观音的保存忌茶叶含水量较多，严禁茶叶与异味接触，注意铁观音茶叶密封保存，防止茶叶挤压。铁观音茶叶后发酵氧化作用，随着温度提升而加速，引起品质劣变，因此要保持铁观音茶叶品质，尤其是色泽，以低温保存较为有效。
虽然低温保存的成本较高，但安溪铁观音或其它茶叶无论保存期长或短，仍应低温保存以保持色泽和新鲜味。低温保存是将铁观音茶叶保存空间的温度经常保持在5℃以下，使用冷藏库或冷冻库保存铁观音茶叶，少量保存或一般消费者可使用冰箱。
铁观音茶树
十、正味铁观音冲泡方法
铁观音传统的冲饮方法非常讲究。茶具要小巧精致，水要用山岩泉水。将水烧沸，先把茶壶烫热，装上大约占壶容量十分之三四的茶叶，冲入沸水，用壶盖刮去浮上来的泡沫，盖好壶盖，此时便有一股殊香扑鼻而来。隔5——15秒钟，再缓缓倒入小茶杯，每人各持一杯，先闻香，再品味，慢慢啜饮，便满口生香，回味甘美。铁观音素有“观音韵”之称，其入口微苦，回味甘香，清郁隽永，韵味无穷。
十一、正味铁观音的市场现状
铁观音消费日渐红火，市场混乱现状让人担忧。缺乏统一的加工工艺标准，造成铁观音香型混乱，口感差异大，使得消费者也很困惑。回归传统制茶工艺，传承原有的制作技艺，一方面否定了拖酸、消青等在制作工艺上偷工减料或者投机取巧的做法，一方面也是对铁观音质量的保障，尤其随着消费意识的增强，如今只有这正味铁观音才让铁观音市场混乱的现象有一个固定的参照者，也更加适合铁观音文化的宣传。
正味铁观音
十二、如何才能买到正味铁观音
纵观目前的市场，如果用“乱像”来形容并不为过，如今一些忠实的“铁粉”们要想买到一泡正宗的正味铁观音，难上加难。其原因除了产量较少之外，铁观音市场的混乱也是主要推手之一，据网上一些标注正味铁观音的茶叶，笔者看了一下，有些是拖酸、而有些是消青茶品；除此之外，价位也是参差不齐，已经几十元的标注正味，几百元的也标注正味，标签的混乱也让消费者无从下手。除此之外，产地的混乱程度也是一大痛点，有些非原产地的铁观音也打着安溪铁观音的标签，这一点相信大家也是知晓一二的。
1. How did Zhengwei Tieguanyin come from?
Tieguanyin is the top variety in the tea industry. The technological trend of the Tieguanyin industry is changing relatively fast. From the traditional tea in the past to the popularity of light fermentation technology, the light hair technology has been divided into positive stir-frying, green tea, and acid dragging. There are three categories, among which Xiaoqing derives two sub-categories, "Xiaozheng" and "Xiaoqing dragging". These types of teas have significant style differences in appearance, aroma and taste.
1. Stir-frying: The dry tea is dark green, the color is dark and not fresh, and the visual perception of Tieguanyin is poor and dark.
2. Elimination of green: dry tea is generally sandy green, the color and luster are generally high, and the visual perception is better.
3. Xiaoqing drag: dry tea is mostly green, and the color and luster are generally high. The difference between the appearance and the Xiaoqing tea is not very large, so it is difficult to distinguish from the appearance. (But it can be distinguished from the aroma of dry tea).
Zhengwei Tieguanyin dry tea
2. The aroma characteristics of Zhengwei Tieguanyin
1. Stir-frying: The aroma of the stir-frying tea bowl is not obvious. Even if it is a high-quality product, the aroma of the first brewing bowl is also very weak (a faint fragrance), the tea soup is clear and translucent, the tea water is soft, the sweetness is strong, and the fragrance is light but very long. , belongs to the style with stamina - but in terms of aroma, it is more common to stir-fry with a delicate fragrance, and its strength is difficult to compare with Xiaoqing products. The aroma of tea soup is also more elegant, and the style is more subtle.
2. Xiaoqing: Xiaoqing tea has obvious fragrance, good Xiaoqing tea has a domineering or melodious fragrance, and top-grade tea has a flamboyant or subtle style, but it is easy to perceive - excellent fragrance is elegant. However, in recent years, the extremely sharp and domineering iron of Gaixiang has disappeared, and I have come into contact with the highest-grade tea products. However, this type of tea is also extremely rare, and it is not recommended to pursue it. Generally speaking, Xiaoqing tea is easy to achieve clear and high fragrance, and it is also the easiest for tea lovers to accept.
Xiaozheng: The aroma is similar to that of fried tea, but it is easier for the drinker to feel than the aroma of fried tea. The aroma of Zhengwei Tieguanyin is close to the style of stir-frying; acid elimination: after washing the tea, if you smell the bottom of the leaves, there will be a clear sour aroma, which is generally pleasant; after water, the sour aroma disappears, and the tea soup is not sour.
3. Tow sour: The sour taste is obvious. Tow sour tea generally has obvious sour taste. The sour taste will stink after a long time of this kind of tea, and the value is relatively low. Nowadays, many Tieguanyin lovers like this type of tea very much. The sour tea generally has obvious dragging flavor. This kind of tea has fatal flaws, and the craftsmanship has no reserved value.
People in the industry believe that: in terms of the high degree of aroma, dragging acid ranks first, eliminating green ranks second, and frying is third; in terms of the elegance of aroma: Zheng frying ranks first, and Xiaoqing ranks second (high-end products can also be tied for the first place). 1), there is no comparison between dragging the acid and the end of the stream.
True taste Tieguanyin leaf bottom
3. The taste characteristics of Zhengwei Tieguanyin
1. Stir-fried: Zhengwei tea, the taste is very smooth, and the sweetness is very strong. The entrance is very comfortable, and the mouth is full of tea after a few cups. There will be a feeling of wanting to swallow all the time.
2. Xiaoqing: The taste is relatively strong, the tea is soft and delicate, and the aftertaste is good, but it is worse than the fried tea. Because of its high aroma, many tea drinkers in the market like this tea.
3. Sour: This type of tea has a very good taste and has a sour taste. Many people think of this taste as Guanyin rhyme. People who have just learned to drink Tieguanyin can easily accept this type of tea. Tea, but after drinking it for a long time, I don't like it as much as it used to.
Zhengwei Tieguanyin Soup
Fourth, the characteristics of the bottom of the authentic Tieguanyin tea
1. Stir-frying: generally dark yellow-green;
2. Elimination of green: dark green;
3. Towing acid: generally dark green with good gloss.
Five, the production process characteristics of Zhengwei Tieguanyin
1. Stir-frying: stir-frying in the morning after picking, using heavy drying, multiple shaking, and long intervals, the fermentation degree is relatively moderate. The production method of Zhengchao tea basically continues the traditional craftsmanship of Guanyin.
2. Xiaoqing: stir fry from noon to evening on the second day after picking, make it at noon to eliminate zheng, and make it in the afternoon to eliminate acid.
3. Tow acid: stir-fry in the early morning on the third day after picking, with the least degree of shaking.
Dried Tieguanyin tea
6. The fermentation degree of Zhengwei Tieguanyin
In terms of production technology, Zhengwei Tieguanyin belongs to the tea products with sufficient fermentation, with a fermentation degree of about 30%. The color is quite different from some emerald-green Tieguanyin we usually see. Strictly speaking. The appearance color of Zhengwei Tieguanyin is mainly black and cyan, and it looks slightly white. This characteristic is especially obvious in hair tea. High-quality Zhengwei Tieguanyin is not only black, dark green, but also shiny and shiny. As the saying goes, "black oil is full of water".
7. Requirements for the tree species of Zhengwei Tieguanyin
Tieguanyin is produced in Anxi, and the army of tea gardens is gradually growing. Some tea gardens that do not meet the conditions are also indiscriminate. Tea gardens at low altitudes and tea gardens planted in rice fields, including surrounding counties and cities, are not suitable for planting and growing in Anxi Tieguanyin. These tea leaves cannot withstand heavy shaking and heavy fermentation because of their poor quality, so the production process of eliminating green and acid dragging is used to cover up the shortcomings.
Returning to the traditional production process can just make a certain distinction between Tieguanyin at low altitude, "Tianqing" and Tieguanyin at medium and high altitude, and Tieguanyin in Anxi County and outside the county. It is worth mentioning that "Tian Qing" cannot be made of Tieguanyin, so the tree species of Tieguanyin are not as many as we imagined. Whether the Tieguanyin with the slogan of Anxi is authentic, the benevolent sees the benevolent and the wise sees. wisdom.
Sour Tieguanyin dry tea
Eight, the planting environment requirements of Zhengwei Tieguanyin
Planting and producing high-quality authentic Tieguanyin must have three elements at the right time, place and people. The pure-bred Tieguanyin tea tree is suitable for good soil for the growth of tea trees. Generally, it is planted in the alpine area with an altitude of 800-1000m. At such an altitude, there is much fog and more diffused light. The temperature is suitable for Tieguanyin to contain richer amino acids. . Tieguanyin Tea Garden is better to sit in the south and face the north, because of this geographical location, the sun does not shine directly all day long, and the sunlight is mostly oblique light. Thus forming a unique Tieguanyin quality and carefully cultivated, 4 to 10 years old tea trees produced even better.
Tieguanyin tea tree growing environment
Nine, the storage method of Zhengwei Tieguanyin
The preservation of the true taste of Tieguanyin should not contain much water in the tea leaves, and it is strictly forbidden to contact the tea leaves with peculiar smells. Pay attention to the preservation of Tieguanyin tea leaves in a sealed manner to prevent the tea leaves from being squeezed. The post-fermentation and oxidation of Tieguanyin tea will accelerate with the increase of temperature, causing quality deterioration. Therefore, to maintain the quality of Tieguanyin tea, especially the color, it is more effective to store at low temperature.
Although the cost of cryopreservation is high, Anxi Tieguanyin or other teas should be kept at low temperature to maintain their color and fresh taste, regardless of their long or short shelf life. Low temperature storage is to keep the temperature of the storage space of Tieguanyin tea below 5°C, and use the refrigerator or freezer to store Tieguanyin tea.
Tieguanyin tea tree
Ten, Zhengwei Tieguanyin brewing method
Tieguanyin's traditional brewing method is very particular. The tea set should be small and delicate, and the water should be mountain rock spring water. Boil the water, first scald the teapot, put about three to four-tenths of the pot's capacity with tea leaves, pour in the boiling water, scrape off the floating foam with the lid, and close the lid. The fragrance is pungent. After 5-15 seconds, slowly pour into small tea cups, each person holds a cup, smell the fragrance first, then taste it, and sip it slowly, it will be full of fragrance and sweet aftertaste. Tieguanyin is known as "Guanyin Yun".
11. The market status of Zhengwei Tieguanyin
The consumption of Tieguanyin is becoming more and more prosperous, and the current state of market chaos is worrying. The lack of a unified processing technology standard results in confusion of Tieguanyin flavors and great differences in taste, which makes consumers confused. Returning to the traditional tea-making process and inheriting the original production skills, on the one hand, negated the practice of cutting corners or opportunistic methods in the production process, such as dragging acid and eliminating green, on the other hand, it also guaranteed the quality of Tieguanyin, especially with the increase of consumer awareness , Now only the Tieguanyin market has a fixed reference, and it is more suitable for the promotion of Tieguanyin culture.
Authentic Tieguanyin
12. How to buy authentic Tieguanyin
Looking at the current market, it is not an exaggeration to describe it as "chaotic image". Nowadays, it is even more difficult for some loyal "iron fans" to buy a cup of authentic Tieguanyin. In addition to the small output, the confusion in the Tieguanyin market is also one of the main drivers. According to some online teas marked with the true taste of Tieguanyin, the author took a look. In addition, the price is also uneven, the label of tens of yuan is right, and the label of several hundred yuan is also labelled. The confusion of labels also makes it difficult for consumers to start. In addition, the degree of confusion in the origin is also a major pain point. Some Tieguanyin from non-originating areas are also labeled as Anxi Tieguanyin, which I believe everyone knows a thing or two.